Argentina: Buenos Aires; Recoleta & San Telmo

We are in Buenos Aires in Argentina eating steaks as big as our heads in Desnivel restaurant in San Telmo district and walking miles around this great city. We have bought tickets to see one of the biggest and most infamous football games in the world; Boca vs River at the amazing 65,000 capacity River stadium this Sunday. We can only go as part of a VIP tour because the match is famous for passionate clashes between teams and rivalry that runs very deep between their fans…….a history of stadium seats being ripped out and thrown at each other, pitch invasions and fireworks being randomly lobbed around; so apparently we will be kept safe in a VIP box!
We went to the Recoleta area to see the amazing cemetery where Eva Peron is buried. Lots of photos below.
The cemetery includes graves of some of the most influential and important persons of Argentina including several presidents scientists and wealthy families. Eva Perón is the best known person buried here. The cemetery is packed with elaborate marble mausoleums decorated with statues and laid out in sections like city blocks, with wide tree-lined main walkways branching into sidewalks filled with more mausoleums.
While many of the mausoleums are still grand and well maintained others have fallen into disrepair due to years of neglect; broken glass skylights, rotting lace draped over coffins, crumbling plasterwork and collapsing entrances. It lends the cemetry a grand but ultimately creepy gothic atmosphere. In many instances you can peer through broken glass or crumbling brickwork to see the coffins inside.

There must be about 9 or 10 coffins stacked inside this old mausoleum.
Amazing skull etched glass doors.

Each mausoleum bears the family name etched into the facade; brass or bronze plaques are added to the front for particular family members. La Recoleta is one of those cemeteries where the tradition of engraving a death date but no birth date has been maintained.

Do I look spooky enough?


There is a colony of feral cats living inside the cemetery gates of La Recoleta, they tend to gather in groups of dozens near closing-time when some locals feed them. Someone seems to have shaved this one for some reason.

Eva Peron’s mausoleum.

Through the mausoleum windows.

We have found some great little cafes and bars in San Telmo.


Around Buneos Aire’s streets.

It looks like Paris and has equal amounts of dog shit on the pavements, but Buenos Aires way more friendly and nowhere near as filled with snobs. There’s a fantastic atmosphere in this city especially in the San Telmo street market on Sundays with musicians playing and locals trading crafts, jewelry, old posters and antiques… and large groups of drummers play on into the night, leading gathering groups of onlookers through the cobbled streets in a rhythmically swaying drinking, hollering mad procession. It is fantastic fun.



Falklands war veterans have a permanent protest camp set up in one of the local squares.


The Argentine Beatles cover band!

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