Iceland

October 2023

Day 1 Thursday 5 October

Iceland! Long wanted to visit. Dave surprised me with flights for a very early birthday present. Landed at 10.40pm…picked the car up at 11pm; a 4-wheel drive Skoda which illuminates its name on the tarmac each time I open the door. From 26c in New York to 5c and drizzle…not as cold as we expected. Took us 10 minutes to find out how to exit the airport, another 10 to the hotel which looks like a youth hostel.  Other guests wander the featureless corridors confused. In our room the window blinds are several feet above our head, luckily Dave is tall and can close them. We crash out with one thin pillow each. 

Day 2 Friday 6 October

Only a four hour time difference and eager to see the landscapes after arriving in the dark, by 9am we’re in a local cafe where glass counters brim with traditional Icelandic sweet pastries and sandwiches. A 40 minute drive in to Reykjavik, passing through bronze moorland tufted among black volcanic rock. The colours are extraordinary; burnished gold, rust, sulphur yellow, black. A landscape artist’s dream.  Snow capped mountains wrapped in heavy cloud low and grey. We drive in to Reykjavik parking close to Hallgrimskirkja Church. We pay the fee to climb the tower to look out across this compact city.

At the punk museum we meet Black Elf….who tells us he hates everybody.  “Can I take your photo?” Black Elf “I don’t care.” On the way out, determined…I keep talking at him until he gives in. He told us that when he was young he used to ask for money on the main street…if he didn’t like someone he’d kick them. He said John Lydon flew in to officially open the punk museum, I won’t give you his opinion of the ex Sex Pistol. I asked if he liked Henry Rollins…I won’t relate that opinion either. Visit this place because it’s worth it, only takes about 30 minutes and if you’re a fan of punk you’ll love it. There’s some great video footage, an interesting history of Icelandic punk including some stuff about early bands featuring Bjork, it’s well thought out and put together, it’s amusing and it’s fun. And to be fair to the true aesthetics of punk rock, Black Elf is a genuine embodiment of it and was in a punk band (video footage shown in the museum); just be really upbeat and gregarious if he’s on the door because it will do his head in.

Walking down the main street through town we head for the harbour to see the magnificent Harpan Concert Hall. Designed by the Danish firm Henning Larsen Architects with the collaboration of renowned artist Olafur Eliasson. Take a walk inside the building; it’s a stunning optical illusion in glass.

Lunch of 2 sandwiches at the centrally located Bakabaka (right near the punk museum) sets us back $45 (it is very expensive here) but the sandwiches are good and it’s a laid back place to sit and get talking with your fellow diners and the service is great. 

We head to the Sun Voyager sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, waiting for people taking 20 photos in different poses to move out of shot. Snow capped mountains backdrop the harbour. It’s stillness anchored like the dream of a viking ship changing in the late afternoon light…shadows moving across the reflective surface. It is perfectly situated.

Driving Snorabraut main road to connect on to Kringlumyrarbr. To the supermarket…even more expensive than New York. Staying tonight at Hlid Fisherman’s Village a 15 minute drive from Reykjavik out on a peninsula…apparently close to the president’s residence but it’s surprisingly inexpensive. Horses, totems, volcanic rocks, a sauna, hot tubs…and a pigeon coop! Turf covered roofs and beautiful interiors.   Much prefer staying outside of city centres and this is a real find with stunning views. We are happy that we didn’t stay in Reykjavik. The Icelandic horses in the nearby field are pretty…but stubbornly antisocial…hah. The sun goes down over the water edged by black rocks.

Day 3 Saturday 7 October

A day exploring the Golden Circle winding us eventually to Vik. Morning sun glitters on frosted volcanic rock as we drive out passing a warehouse called Bauhaus. Dave: “Pete Murphy’s camping shop.” We head on Arnarnesvegur by squat functional buildings of grey white and blue….flat corrugated roofs, the occasional surprise of a bright red roof. There’s a scatter of trees but it’s mostly tussocked heath or rocks. 

The road leads towards a mountain range, snowed peaks push through heavy cloud. On to the smaller 36 Pingvallavegur road, mountains to our left and fields of stocky rugged horses to our right. Stands of young trees, bark silvered by morning sun.  Soft golden fields turn into hummocks of red purple violet green. The colours are extraordinary. We stop at a lookout point to take photos. A group of middle age American women are competing over places they’ve travelled ”Did you see the wildebeest migration and the fat alligators?” “Oh the circle of life.” To the other side of us a young woman poses for photographs; standing coquettishly on one leg, knee bent, the opposite arm in the air…the scenery is stunning but she’s not looking at it…we will her to fall over. 

This area is known as The Golden Circle. Pulling in at Oxarfoss we walk a paved walkway down through weather-beaten ancient outcrops of rock. Iceland was settled by Norwegians circa 874 and Thingvellir (Þingvellir) National Park was the site of the Icelandic parliament formed around 930.  It was here that cases were tried and laws enacted..place names are reminders of the harsh punishments inflicted; women drowned in Drekkingarhylur, men beheaded on Hoggstokkseyri. In Brennugja those convicted of being a witch or wizard burned to death in the witch hunts of the 17th century.  The rift Stekkjargja once a hanging site. Red plants luminous and grasses feathered by hoarfrost cling to black rock, vivid green moss snugly caps. We walk the boardwalks to the small waterfall. 

At the viewpoint for Þingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest lake we look out across 32 square miles (374 feet deep)…mist hanging so low my eyes deceive. Exiting Pingvellir through Laugarvatn a sign: “Welcome to Bjork guesthouse.” Hot thermal springs spume white by the side of a lake. Pale green pasture tufted bronze with grass grazed by sheep.  Farm buildings, the omnipresent Icelandic horses…cattle bumping softly. Hay rolls tightly bailed, bound in black plastic stark against the green. Following the 37 Laugarvatnsvegur by Brekka heading for Geysir in the geothermal Haukadalur Valley. We park among a herd of tour buses; it must be packed in summer. There’s a Geysir visitor centre, gift shop and large restaurant overflowing with people. Simple sandwiches at 2,200 ISK. We use the toilets and walk over the road passing smaller thermals to the main Geysir belching steam and light spray upwards over 40 feet. The Great Geysir (geysa in Icelandic meaning to gush), is the first recorded Geysir for which all other geysers (English spelling) are named. It’s the second biggest geyser in the world, (the biggest ‘Steamboat Geyser’ in America’s Yellowstone) estimated 10,000 years old and linked to volcanic activity…it erupts every 10-15 minutes sending a plume of fast cooling boiling water 50 feet. 

Back in the car we stuff our faces; granola bars bananas fresh blueberries and roadtrip favourite, Pringles.  Driving to Gullfoss to see Iceland’s most visited waterfall the carpark again packed with tour buses. Walking down steel steps to see the 32 metre high waterfall crash through basalt columns, dropping in 2 tiers into the canyon of the Hvítá river. 

White spray settles on surrounding fauna where in spaces not reached by sun, a carpet of crystal ice shimmers. Ice threads the canyon walls…the roaring boil of water bouncing back from rock…the sound exhilarating, a rainbow dazzles. We follow the path further down to stand at the head of the falls. For music fans a frozen Gullfoss is the cover of Echo and the Bunnymen’s ‘Porcupine’ album.

Leaving the falls, by Hrunamamannahrepur over Blaskogar river. Abandoning a stop at Fludir and deciding to loop back to see the Kerid Crater a 30 minute drive away. We’ve left the main tourist route…long stretches of road with no other traffic until each time we near a town and a handful of cars swoop by. Horses everywhere, more farms, more hay bales. The sun encroached by cloud but it’s still not cold and luckily no rain. Along route 35 Biskupstungna braut. At Kerid Crater we catch up with fellow tourists…much smaller tour buses here…I wonder if like us they’re going in to Vik. Kerið or Kerid is a volcanic crater lake in Grimsnes. It’s huge, around 6,500 years old. The water a bright mineral fed aquamarine sits at the level of the water table, not dependent on rain. The caledra red rather than black rock. Around 55 metres (180 feet) deep and 170 metres (560 feet) wide and 270 metres (890 feet) across. For scale note the people walking around the lake edge. Not thought to be a volcanic eruption…experts believe that Kerid was a cone volcano which erupted and emptied its magma reserve, the weight of the cone collapsing into the empty magma chamber. 

On to highway Biskupstungnabraut turning on to Sudurlandsvegur through the town of Sellfoss a tourist hub. By Byggium Saman grocery store…trying to pronounce place names. Stands of young fir trees, lone houses few trees naked in October. Through Hella where it rains lightly, further on we pass the hotel we cancelled for tonight, Kansarlen feeling grateful that we did; overlooking Route 1 sitting in a long row of industrial buildings.  On Route 1 (the ring road) the sky wide open…a flock of geese fly tight, long necked. By a turn off for Hotel Ranga through Hvols….a small town with grocery stores and black horses in the fields. The land flat for miles…mountains in the distance, few trees. Heavy cloud rolls in and drops, shouldering to the road, colours flatten. Heavier rain heavier sky then suddenly near several waterfalls we cross an area of black volcanic earth. It’s stunning. Following mountains black and golden green to our left where several small waterfalls silver the rock. Huge rocks have tumbled now imbedded, stopping 40 feet shy of the road. Ahead mountains push up craggy spires carpeted green looped with mist. We stop at Drangurinn…an ancient house poking out of rock standing below the Eyjafjoll mountains. Icelanders say Elves live in the rock.

We continue on not stopping at Skogafoss, we can see it on the way back. We check in to Hotel Dyrholaey perched up a steep winding road in Brekkum in Vik I Myrdal.…a connected group of functional buildings.  Our room is 162; this place is big, on one level, the room clean and comfortable. The check in person Marta is fantastic, friendly and helpful.  The onsite restaurant fills with 5 tour groups. We eat near the window with views across rust coloured heath towards Dyrholaey Beach. Walking back to our room running teenagers loop the long connected corridors playing hide and seek…they’re about 17 years old…and gleeful.

Day 4 Sunday 8 October

Early buffet breakfast watching the sun burn off the cloud. We’re heading for Diamond Beach by extraordinary mountains mossed green. A stark contrast to the black volcanic sand on the opposite side. Just before the village of Kirkjubaejarklaustur we pull over to gawk jaw-droppingly across the vast lava fields of Eldhraun, the largest lava flow in the world covering 565sq km. The 2 year long eruption in 1783 created the surreal landscape, the resulting famine and disease almost resulting in a mass evacuation of Iceland to Denmark. It’s dreamlike, volcanic rocked clothed in moss stretching for miles. Protected with a specific area near the roadside roped off for visitors…ankle twistingly difficult to walk.

We stop again at Foss a Sidu, falling from wind weathered rock between trees rustling gold.  The rock pillows out, carved by weather…small caves sit like features on a prehistoric face.

And in to more extraordinary landscapes, I cannot describe what I’m seeing…it surpasses expectation. At Nupsvotn we drive by bridges and swathes of black lava fields.  At Svinafellsjokull Glacier we turn off on to a loose gravel road, walk the rocky ice blasted paths to gaze across frozen water to miles of dazzling white glacier.

Continuing on the ring road to Diamond Beach…where icebergs break down in the lake, get pulled out in low tide to get washed up again as fragments that melt back in to the black pebbled beach. 

A short walk under the bridge to the Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon in Hofn where icebergs float…bumping one another floating to the sea…some caught in a current slowly circling in a temporary dance.

Looping back over a bridge over miles of black loose rock it looks like we’re on another planet. Everywhere the contrast of colour.

Towards the hotel we detour down to walk on the famous Reynisfjara black sand beach, the ‘sand’ is volcanic ash. It’s crowded, tour buses at their last stop of the day, but we manage to find space for ourselves, pulling hats down over ears we’re buffeted by a harsh brittle wind coming off the sea. Warning signs tell us of the sneaker waves. Inside the cave the rock low slung solid…black grey green…in the shadows it’s opaque, inky.

Basalt columns like stepping stones lead the eye upwards. Sea stacks, beautiful rock formations.

The sea stacks of this Reynisdrangar shoreline stand like ominous prophets in the sea. Formed from Basaltic rock, years of erosion pulling away the softer rock to leave behind these large craggy outcrops. Folklore says they were originally Trolls disguised as humans dragging a boat to shore, turned by the sun to rock.

Hungry we stop in Vik where there’s a supermarket but few places to eat. A pizza place sells black dough pizza, a gimmick for sure and it looks burned but tastes like any other pizza. 

Day 5 Monday 9 October

We eat breakfast in the hotel looking out at white fog and pouring rain. The black bread is delicious. They’re not shy of a marketing trick. The Icelandic weather I was expecting has arrived. I’m not disheartened…more surprised at the 3 days of brilliant sunshine prior to this. 20 minutes from the hotel we pull over at Skogafoss where at 8.50am there are only 5 other tourists. We are wearing waterproof trousers coats and boots. The waterfall plunges over the rocks spraying white mist creating a small river running over black pebbles.  It is magnificent dramatic exciting…one of my favourite sites. It’s hard to get your head around the beauty of these places and the inclement weather often adds to the majesty.

We’re driving back on ourselves, heading West to above Reykjavik. At Selfoss we pass shops and restaurants, businesses, hotels. It’s built up but in pouring rain everyone’s off the streets. Over a bridge where a lone rock sits stubborn in the midst of the river, a fir tree grows from it in a defiant flash of green. We pass rows of greenhouses where heatlamps cast hazy yellow looking eerie in the grey. Following route 1 the ring road climbing higher looking down on a town in a valley beneath…more functional houses, boxes with the occasional splash of red or green roof. Above Reykjavik through a tunnel 6km long taking us under the sea. Emerging and turning right heading for Borgarnes along the Pjodvegur still following the ring road. We stop in Borgarfjordur district in the south-west at Fossatun on the River Grimsa. Apparently this is the Troll Bridge and a Troll waterfall, trolls and elves are part of Icelandic folklore and taken quite seriously. On the other side of the river we spy the humorously named Rock n’Troll cafe.

This area is known for the setting of Icelandic Sagas. At Borgarnes the rain is still heavy so we duck inside the Settlement Centre. Wearing headphones we learn about Egil’s Saga…the story of a violent poet (!) who killed a load of people in 930.  A separate exhibition teaches us about the earliest settlers, Vikings from Norway.  The replica Nithing pole, originally a horse’s head on a stick used for cursing one’s enemies is unnerving displayed in a dark corner like a Halloween fright mask. The Sagas are fascinating. Walking the accompanying wooden carved depictions whilst listening to the story on headphones is a great way to learn about this important part of Icelandic culture.

Large cups of hot chocolate in a nearby surprisingly bohemian cafe….and back in the car pointing northeast, through farmland huddled sheep and horses…sheltering from the rain. Through Hvrenn. Passing by ‘Sturlureykir Visiting Horse Farm’ which confuses us, who are the horses visiting? We pull over to see more waterfalls at Hraunfossar and Barnafoss; connected by 2 footbridges with lookout points. Hraunfossar is a series of drops streaming over a distance of around 900 metres out of the Hallmundarhraun; a lava field which flowed from an eruption created by one of the volcanoes lying under the glacier Langjokull. The falls drop in to the River Hvita. Even on this cold wet day the landscapes are stunning.

At Barnafoss the water boils as it churns and wears away the volcanic rock. We walk up in to the Hallmundarhraun laval fields, stumbling on the path, marvelling at the weather worn rocky outcrops pocked and striated with wavelike ridges. Leaving the falls and on through Reykholt but not in the mood for another museum we head for our hotel… where I spend an amusing 15 minutes running up and down staircases with the guy from the front desk looking for spare pillows for our room which are hidden behind floor to ceiling curtains on various landings.

Day 6 Tuesday 10 October

Hotel buffet breakfast in a low lit black furnished dining room with picture windows overlooking light snow falling in slim drifts. Driving for the Snaefellness peninsula the car lurches in the wind. I get out…careful not to open the door wide and the wind whips a blue plastic bag from my camera and hurls it across acres of fields. I feel a pang watching it fly across the pristine landscape; an accidental polluter. The scenery changed again by overnight snow; a cinematic flat blanket stitched with red and pale gold rolling out to the mountains. 

Through a moss covered lava field; more craggy and jagged than the one we saw in the southeast, stopping at the Gerduberg Cliffs to see basalt columns; low set, blunted and uniform.

It’s 1 degree centigrade the wind pushes us around.  We’re wearing so many layers we’re cocooned against it. Frozen snow blown over black pebbles creates intricate patterns.

At Barvastoppar a mountain looms dwarfing a cluster of small buildings. The well visited black church at Budir dates to the 19th century with a small graveyard behind. Visitors shelter behind the stone walls from the chasing wind. Far fewer people in this area than in the South. 

Further up the coast Arnarstapi fishing village sits at the foot of Mount Stapafell; a convenient lookout point gives views across fabulous volcanic rock formations slowly eroding as the sea chips away at ancient rock.

There’s a 2.5km cliff edge walk to Hellnar but the wind is so strong we’re having trouble staying upright and instead drive 5 minutes to its stone and lava beach. Huge holes carved out of the rock formations… sea foams around fissures and rippled rock.

Dave walks ahead picking his way to film the inside. I decide against risking twisting my knee and stand watching a digger lift giant rocks skillfully laying them to form a break against the sea. 

On to Londrangar. A rock shaped like a giant throne looms over the cliffs where tide pools scoop hollows in black rock and sea water collects glittering silver in the sun. Groups of photographers weighted with huge lenses gather on a stepped wooden lookout. It is a magnificent view.

We see the cliff side lighthouse at Malarrif but keep driving, pulling in at Djupalonssandur for the black lava beach which like almost everything in Iceland is stunning. Large rocks weathered against years of wind and salt spray.  

Everything looks bold…dramatic. Yellow seaweed on red rock, scarlet seaweed against the black of wet pebbles, silvered shale rock rests in thousands of delicate layers.

From brilliant sunshine a storm of hail suddenly sweeps across the road, blown rolling by the wind…bouncing against the car whitening the windows…within minutes it’s gone…blown out…the sun dazzles.

We don’t stop at Saxholl Crater, steep steps to the top and the wind is blowing hard against the few hardened tourists making the climb.  Instead on to Hellissandur to see street art murals painted on the sides of buildings boxed in by small square houses. The Ram is spectacular.

Driving by the small fishing town of Rif where docked fishing trawlers bob in the sea. Through Olafsvik a small town but more built up, more houses hunkered low facing the waves. A sea wall of huge rocks lines one side of the road…the opposite side a small fishing boat ‘Tindur’ is mounted roadside. A blue tractor its cab high up on massive wheels ambles in front of us. We’re the only two vehicles on the road.

Kirkjufell is a mountain menacing in its mass standing in the Atlantic sea. Used as a location in the TV show ‘Game of Thrones’…a town of holiday cottages, hotels, functional buildings with grey metal roofs snug down in its shadow.

30 minutes further looping the coastline through red burnished moor, black sheep with curled horns…dazzling sulphur yellow cloaked mountains. The weather changes from sun, snow, rain, sleet, hail and crazy high winds.

Constantly pointing my camera. All the landscapes of the world plus more colours than we’ve ever experienced gathered here on one small island…it’s extraordinary.

To the small town of Stykkisholmur making a stop at Vatnasafn to visit The Library of Water; I’d heard about it when I read the book ‘Names for the Sea’ by Sarah Moss. We have to drive first in to the town to pay a small entrance fee and pick up the key to the building. 24 floor to ceiling tubes holding water from 24 different glaciers in Iceland. It’s a great idea but there’s not enough information onsite. It’s mid afternoon and everything else is closed or closing in 30 minutes. We manage to get bowls of tomato soup at a cafe where several other visitors rush in to get something to eat before the doors shut for the day. 

Driving back will take a couple of hours. Around 4.30pm a bright blue sky and a rainbow bows dazzlingly over the road. It’s been a long day, a 5 and a half hour loop covering around 400 kilometres (250 miles) of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Back at the hotel it’s windy and overcast…we sit snug in the lounge with drinks from the bar.

Day 7 Wednesday 11 October

Our last full day. Breakfast and a 90 minute drive back to Reykjavik. We wander the city again…not in the mood for a museum but this means we soon run out of things to do. 

We see some great street art around the main shopping streets. Unlike New York City and London few artists here seem to tag their instagram names to their art. Credited below; side of the green building by Fruit of the Loop and pink and yellow image by Thomas Korn. I couldn’t find names to credit the others.

Neither of us are particularly fond of Reykjavik. It’s very functional, understandable considering location and weather but it doesn’t feel particularly welcoming, a little standoffish…jaded by the massive influx of tourism…again understandable but it generates jobs and a sizeable income for the country. The majority of people I talk with use Reykjavik as a base from which to go out on day tours. It depends on budget but a hire car gives the freedom to see a lot more and the ring road is easily navigated…but watch for weather alerts. Being aware of weather conditions is vital as it changes so quickly. I’m glad we didn’t base ourselves in the city. It’s too limiting.

After coffee in a bookshop and a wander around some back streets looking at local houses, we drive for our 2pm reservation at Sky Lagoon. Like many others we arrive 30 minutes early; allowed inside and took seats to wait only to be unceremoniously told to wait outside in the cold (2 degrees centigrade!). The entire place is booked for a private party until 2pm. Staff were put in a difficult position…management need a kick up the arse for not putting something on the website. It was an unfortunate introduction but the facilities were good and it looks great. The natural volcanic rock and the infinity edge overlooking the sea are well designed. However. They allow phones in…actually catering to them with waterproof holders and again you’re stuck in someone else’s Instagram opportunity as they loop the pool; it’s invasive and ruins the atmosphere. We made a mistake, we should have gone to one of the natural hotsprings dotted around the country for a local experience.

Iceland is about the landscapes and the further in to them you venture the more awestruck and mystified you will be. One day in Reykjavik is all you need if you’ve only got a limited time to explore. Out of the summer season take waterproofs (umbrellas are useless in the wind), decent boots/hiking boots and layers; undervests, a pair of thermal leggings/longjohns, woolen jumpers and socks, a warm hoodie, scarf, hat, gloves. If you get wet you’ll be cold and miserable…a rain poncho can be useful but a waterproof coat with a hood and waterproof trousers layered with thermal leggings will be enough. I wore pretty much the same things every day. Jeans are useless once wet…they’ll take hours to dry. You might use everything, you might not need most of it… but the weather is all over the place. High season will be packed…October still had plenty of visitors but manageable and still easy to get around.

Go. The Icelandic landscape really is as spectacular as everyone claims.

Stayed

I booked everything for this trip on Expedia.com for their generous cancellation policies which meant I could keep the trip flexible to a certain degree. Regretted not staying 2 nights at Hild Fisherman’s Village for Reykjavik as the first night’s hotel near the airport was terrible (late flight/arrived 11pm- that hotel not included below).

Reykjavik (outskirts) Hild Fishermans Village (1 night) https://www.fishermansvillage.is (our favourite, beautiful place/views. If you have a car base yourself here for Reykjavik instead of in the city).

Vik Hotel Dyrholaey (2 nights) https://www.dyrholaey.is

Borgarnes Hotel Varmaland (2 nights) https://www.expedia.com/Borgarnes-Hotels-Hotel-Varmaland.h22348352.Hotel-Information

Keflavík (near the airport) Hotel Berg (1 night) https://www.hotelberg.is

Ate

We rarely ate out or we ate in the places we stayed….long days on the road or simply not much choice or eye wateringly expensive. Local supermarkets are a good source and taking sandwiches and snacks on the road works perfectly. Hotels where breakfast is included is useful when outside the city/major towns. Allow for places outside Reykjavik to be closed in the off season and even in shoulder season as we found.

Keflavik Sigurjónsbakarí Bakery/cafe https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g189964-d12538681-Reviews-Sigurjonsbakari-Keflavik_Reykjanesbaer_Reykjanes_Peninsula.html

Reykjavik Cafe BakaBaka https://www.bakabaka.is/

Vik Black Crust Pizza (tourist gimmick/decent pizza) https://www.facebook.com/BlackCrustPizzeria/

Saw

Be aware that place names can be spelled differently when you’re looking them up; the traditional Icelandic spelling and the anglicised spelling…and the Icelandic alphabet uses characters not used in English. It can sometimes be a little confusing when using Google maps but it’s not difficult to figure out.

Reykjavik Icelandic Punk Museum https://icelandic-punk-museumponksafn-islands.business.site/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=referral

Reykjavik Harpa Concert Hall https://www.harpa.is/en

Reykjavik Hallgrimskirkja Church https://visitreykjavik.is/service/hallgrimskirkja-church

Reykjavik Sun Voyager https://sunvoyager.is/

Golden Circle Thingvellir National Park https://www.visiticeland.com/article/thingvellir

Golden Circle Gullfoss https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/gullfoss

Golden Circle Kerid (Kerið) Crater https://kerid.is/

Drangurinn Rock home to elves https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/drangurinn-rock

Eldhraun Lava fields https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/eldhraun

Near Kirkjubæklaustur Foss A Sidu (Foss a Síðu) https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/foss-a-sidu

Svinafellsjokull Glacier https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/svinafellsjokull

Diamond Beach and Jokulsarlon Icebergs https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/diamond-beach

Vik Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/reynisfjara

Skogafoss (near Vik) https://www.icelandtravel.is/attractions/skogafoss/

Borgarnes The Settlement Centre https://www.landnam.is/eng/

Hraunfossar and Barnafoss https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/barnafoss

Snæfellsnes peninsula Gerduberg Basalt Cliffs https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/gerduberg

Snæfellsnes peninsula Budir (Búðakirkja) Black church https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/budakirkja

Snæfellsnes peninsula Arnarstapi https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/arnarstapi

Snæfellsnes peninsula Hellnar https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/hellnar

Snæfellsnes peninsula Londrangar https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/londrangar

Snæfellsnes peninsula Djupalonssandur https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/djupalonssandur

Snæfellsnes peninsula Hellissandur street art murals https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/murals-of-hellissandur

Snæfellsnes peninsula Kirkjufell https://guidetoiceland.is/travel-iceland/drive/kirkjufell

Snæfellsnes peninsula Vatnasafn Library of Water https://www.artangel.org.uk/project/library-of-water/

Other Stuff

Art Olafur Elliasson https://olafureliasson.net/

History Thingvellir (Þingvellir) parliament https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%9Eingvellir

Nature Geysir https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geysir

History Vik (Vík í Mýrdal) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V%C3%ADk_%C3%AD_M%C3%BDrdal

History Sagas https://www.icelandtravel.is/exploring-the-icelandic-sagas/

History Sagas https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagas_of_Icelanders

Nature Basalt formation https://askanearthspacescientist.asu.edu/top-question/columnar-jointing

Book Names for the Sea: Strangers in Iceland by Sarah Moss https://www.amazon.com/Names-Sea-Strangers-Sarah-Moss/dp/1619021226

Music Bjork https://www.allmusic.com/artist/bj%C3%B6rk-mn0000769444

Music Tappi Tíkarrass Bjork’s early band https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tappi_T%C3%ADkarrass

Music Purrkur Pillnikk 80s Icelandic punk band https://trouserpress.com/reviews/purrkur-pillnikk/

Music Þeyr 80s Icelandic punk/New Wave band https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%9Eeyr

Music Echo & The Bunnymen Porcupine album https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porcupine_(album)